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Las Alpujarras is the beautiful mid-mountain region that forms the southern flank of the Sierra Nevada, leading down to the coast. It is in fact composed of two distinct areas: the spectacular Alpujarra Alta, which is most visited, and the less impressive Alpujarra Baja which is formed by lower hills closer to the sea, also known as La Contraviesa. When someone refers to La Alpujarra or Las Alpujarras, they usually mean the higher part.

Mostly composed of soft limestone and sandstone, these steep upper hillsides have been carved by meltings snows into dramatic barrancos, or ravines, overlooked by small villages which still strongly echo their Berber origins.

Just below the snow line, the higher villages endure crisp winters and hot summers. Fruit orchards, market gardens and cereal crops form an ever-changing patchwork of colour and texture on the gentler hillsides while clumps of chestnut, oak and pine cloak the steeper slopes. Much of the region's fertility is still due to complicated water systems that, like many of the cultivated crops, have hardly changed since the Middle Ages. The area produces especially delicious figs, apricots, dried fruits, nuts and honey.

The western part of the Alpujarras is the most accessible to the visitor and is the most dramatic, formed from steep and narrow valleys that rise to the snowy peaks of the Sierra Nevada. To the east, the hills are more open with a southerly aspect.

Visitors approaching from the coast will first come to Orgiva, principal town in the area and crossroads of the broad Guadalfeo valley. Some of its olive groves are said to date from over 500 years ago. This is starting point for those who are heading higher and a good place for a coffee break.

Slightly off the route, about 10 km to the west, is the small town of Lanjarón, justifiably famous for its mineral water which you'll find served almost everywhere on the coast. Chestnut woods border the town which has magnificent views of the valley and a small Moorish castle that's worth a brief visit.

Driving higher into the sierra, most visitors head for the Barranco de Poqueira, a vertiginous valley rising towards the highest peak, Mulhacén, which can be seen clearly on the skyline. Flat-roofed houses nestle tightly against the steep hillside which is seasonally clad in a variety of colours and especially beautiful in autumn. Spanish broom, rosemary, thyme and other aromatic plants fill the air with their distinctive perfumes. Goat tracks and mountain brooks criss-cross the terraced landscape that's still plowed by mule and sown by hand.

This area is a popular destination in summer, coaches included, but much more relaxed (and colder) out of season. Three pretty villages line the ascending route - Pampaneira, Bubión and Capileira. And each is worth a visit. Between them you'll find a variety of places to shop, eat or simply wander. Everywhere the views are stunning but they're especially panoramic from Capileira, the highest village of the three whose maze of backstreets is also the most unspoilt. Local restaurants offer mainly meat-based dishes with the local ham and its derivatives being top of the menu.

Activities are plentiful, especially hiking. Local agencies offer guided walks with specialists on the local flora and fauna, while horse-trekking, 4x4 and even parapente can be arranged. In Pampaneira you'll find an information and reception centre for the Sierra Nevada National Park. (See Sierra Nevada for details).