Heading west from Almuñécar towards Málaga for ten minutes takes you to Nerja. Perched on small sea cliffs and with panoramic views of the coastline, the old part of town and its confusing maze of twisted backstreets centres on the Balcón de Europa, a prominent vantage point jutting out to sea. The surrounding countryside, once cultivated as mainstay for the local economy, has been increasingly developed for another economy - tourism - and gleaming white urbanisations now blanket much of the lower mountain slopes..

In the second century bc, the Romans founded the small village of Maro, calling it Detunda. Apart from a few minor constructions however, little solid evidence of their occupation has survived. Nerja on the other hand was founded much later during the arab occupation. Starting life as a farming estate during the 10th century, Naricha, as it was then known, developed over the next 500 years into a small township of some importance with flourishing agricultural and silk-weaving industries. Expulsion of the Moors from Spain in the 16th century left Nerja an underpopulated and deflated community which was repopulated by Christians from the north. Sugar cane soon took over as the principal cultivation and continued until quite recently as the mainstay of the local economy.

Nerja is now a bustling and popular holiday destination, mainly for the English, with dozens of shops, bars, restaurants and other tourist facilities. The Balcón de Europa is a good reference point from which to start wandering the backstreets. Parking is difficult if you don't know the area. Turn in towards town at the traffic lights beside the gasoline station, then after 200 metres, turn left and follow the parking signs. This will take you to a large underground carpark very close to the Balcón.

To the east of town, lies the large yellow sand beach of Burriana. This is very popular in summer and well serviced with sports and restaurant facilities. The beach can be reached without having to enter the old town.

A few kilometres before reaching Nerja, at the pretty village of Maro, you'll see signs to the Caves (Cueva de Nerja).

Discovered by schoolboys hunting for bats in 1959, the collection of caverns was soon recognised as being one of the most important cave systems in the country. They provided archaeological proof that Cro-Magnon lived in these parts more than 20,000 years ago and the rupestrian paintings discovered there depicting dolphins are the only known examples from the Upper Palaeolithic era.

It takes about an hour to wander round all the caverns, more if you like caves. And these are quite special. Apart from good lighting (but dubious music), the main impression is made by the 60 metre high stalactic pillar in the furthest chamber. You can also see, high in the end wall, a red light which marks the entrance to another bigger system still unopened to the public.

Every June there is a Festival Of Music and Dance held in the auditorium in the first cave which provides a magical backdrop to ballet, classical music and singing. Top names perform and the seating is limited so we recommend enquiring about tickets well in advance.

The small agricultural pueblo of Frigiliana lies about 7 km inland of Nerja. Perched high in the Sierra Tejeda, this pretty white village has commanding views of the surrounding countryside and litoral. Once poor, it is now a flourishing overflow from the coast with a growing population of foreign residents, although the old town still retains much of its original charm.

Immaculately whitewashed alleways lead through the village to the church and small square. From there we recommend following your nose up the hill through the maze of twisted streets to near the top of the village where a vantage point offers spectacular views of the town and coast, especially at sunset. A handful of souvenir and craft shops sell handicrafts and some of the local products, including the delightful sweet local wine.