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Troubled Shores
The southern coast of Spain was a lucrative hunting ground for pirate ships since the Middle Ages and coastal populations lived in continuous fear of attack. To warn of impending landings or the presence of enemy ships in the area, a series of coastal watchtowers and defences was established by the Moors on the most prominent headlands or clifftops. This system was later strengthened and improved after the Christian Reconquest (1492) and then, most recently, during the 18th century

Communication between the towers was achieved by smoke signals during the day and fires or lights at night. Sometimes sea shells were blown simultaneously so as to give the local population an audible warning. In later years, canon were used to transmit the message whenever possible and especially during bad weather.

This method of communication was surprisingly effective and could pass the news over relatively large distances in a short time. Details that could be transmitted were limited and included little more than the number of boats, their direction and whether they had landed or not. But, perhaps more importantly, the local people had a better chance to escape the plunderers who were after prisoners as much as goods.

After the Turks seized Constantinople in 1453, the Mediterranean became a more dangerous place. Aided by allies along the North African coast, the Turks started an offensive against the growing Spanish Empire which increased dramatically at the begining of the 16th century. The names Redbeard and Dragut inspired fear along the coast of Granada as they and other Turkish corsairs, supported by Berber pirates from across the straights, attacked, destroyed and looted what they could. The final expulsion of the Moors from Spain after the Rebellion of the Alpujarras (1568) further added to the ranks of the Berber pirate forces.

In 1526, Carlos V granted Almuñécar its own escudo, or coat of arms, for having successfully destroyed a Berber attack force in what he considered an exemplary fashion. The coat of arms is the message. It shows an empty pirate ship floating on a bloodstained sea bobbing with severed turbanned heads. Visitors weren't always so welcome on the coast....

Under the Catholic Kings the coastal warning and defense system was restructured and repaired. Over the years, however, the pirate threat diminished and one by one the watchtowers fell into disuse until the mid-18th century. At this time, Spain was periodically at war with the British (who had taken Gibraltar in 1704) and so they decided, in 1764, to strengthen their coastal defences. Most of the constructions seen today are from this period.

By the mid-19th century the coastal defence network had become obsolete, passing into the hands of the carabineros (1839) and finally to the Guardia Civil who still today occupy the Castillo de La Herradura.

The following is a list of defensive points and watchtowers along the seafront of Almuñécar and La Herradura, starting from the east:

Torre de los Diablos
18th century watchtower also known as the Torre de Cabria standing on a hill between the two beaches of Cabria and Enmedio, about 250 metres off the main road (Ctra N340 km337). According to documents the watchtower was tended by a corporal and two 'towermen' in 1764. The typical conical construction is still quite well conserved.

Torre de Enmedio
This was the medieval watchtower replaced by the Torre de los Diablos and lies a little further down the same hill in a complete state of abandon. It has a curious pyramid-shaped base which is about all that remains. Its date of construction is unknown although it was known to exist in 1500.

Torre de Galera
This can be found on the Punta de Jesús, a small rocky headland beside the popular beach of El Tesorillo.

Being almost at sea level, this was a defensive post and refuge more than a watchtower, intended to protect the coast and itself. Built along standard guidelines for the 18th century, it has a horseshoe-shaped base rising two floors with a sturdy platform for taking cannon on top. Its original entrance was six metres off the ground, reached by a rope ladder. Although now privately owned and converted into living accommodation, the tower still almost completely retains its original aspect, except the ladder's been replaced by a front door, of course.

Torre del Granizo
This medieval arab tower, like the Torre de Enmedio, is in a sorry state and only the base remains. In recent years it has also been almost completely engulfed by a large urbanisation which is helping it to live up to its nickname of Torre Muerta which means Dead Tower. What a way to go!

Torre de la Punta de Velilla
In full view of Almuñécar, this watchtower stands on the Punta de Velilla, now more commonly known as Los Pinos. It was erected in the 16th century on the site of an older tower. It's in good condition.

Castillo de San Miguel
Founded by the Romans and then developed during the Middle Ages into a formidable fortress by the Arabs, Almuñécar castle has been key strategic point along the coast for more than 2000 years. After its conquest by Catholic forces in 1489, however, it's importance slowly declined. In 1500, according to some sources, the castle housed a force of 61 soldiers and numerous weapons. By 1739 this was down to 21 and five cannon and by 1849 the building was declared to be a ruin - as castles go. Since then it was used as the local graveyard until cleared about 15 years ago, excavated and opened to the public. For a full description, see Sightseeing/Castle

Torre de la Punta de la Mona
Also known as Torre de los Berengueles, this is another 18th century watchtower built, like many, to replace an older medieval construction. Its location on the top of the Punta de la Mona allowed it to oversee the cove of Los Berengueles (where today stands the Marina del Este) as well as the beach of La Herradura. In those days La Herradura was a popular spot for pirate landings and the tower, in full view of the castles of Almuñécar and La Herradura, was an important link in the warning system. Unfortunately, little respect has been shown towards the original construction which has been tastelessly restored and converted into a lighthouse. Only a few metres away stands a massive rediffusion tower. Fortunately, none of this detracts from the magnificent views along the coast.

To get to the tower, follow the principal road that leads around the western flank of the Punta de la Mona and you'll eventually arrive at the top of the hill.

Castillo de La Herradura
Though called a castle, this defensive fortification standing close to the beach of La Herradura is really a gun battery built around 1768 to defend the bay. It originally had four cannons and a contingent of 27 men, between gunners, infantry and cavalrymen, who's job was to patrol and defend the bay against any landing. By 1830 it was only manned by five guards, with no working cannon and most of the place occupied by livestock, according to one report. Today, it is home to the local Guardia Civil.

Torre de Cerro Gordo
Constructed towards the end of the 16th century, this watchtower is dramatically-located high on the promontory of Cerro Gordo with magnificent views along the coast in both directions. Little attention has been paid to its preservation, as with most of the towers, and its deterioration is gathering speed. It now stands in a protected natural area which can be reached from the old road around Cerro Gordo. A track can be found beside the Restaurant Mirador de Cerro Gordo. Of all towers, this has the finest views along the coast.

Looking west, into the province of Málaga, you'll see many more watchtowers perched along the cliffs, continuing the network along the coast.